Ok, so it’s my first time changing the oil on the new bike. As I mentioned before, I like to change the oil right before a long trip and then right afterwards. We’re 3 weeks out from our next trip, and since I’m going through this bike piece by piece it’s always best to change your oil. Who really knows when the last time the oil was changed.
The KTM 690 Enduro R is a little different from my 950 in that it has 2 separate filters and 2 separate screens that need to be checked, cleaned and replaced. I’ve done a bit of research and here’s the best way to change the oil on the bike.
I’m going to start with the bike on a side stand with the bike as close to level as possible. I’m going to break this down in the order that should happen. Obviously, we’re starting with a warm motor. For clarity, I’m going to number the plugs (in order).
REMOVE THE SKID PLATE
I’ve got a KTM aluminum skid plate on the bike but I think all attach in the same way. It’s 2 bolts at the front. Remove them both and pull the skid plate down and forward. Use either a 8mm socket or a T30.
I noticed that both of my rubber grommets were missing in the rear mounts. I’ll have to source those from somewhere. They can’t fall out naturally, so I blame poor mechanics for that one.
THE DRAIN PLUG
Next pull the drain plug. It’s on the shifter side at the bottom. You’ll see 2 bolts. One is the drain plug, the other is the first screen.
Pull the drain plug out and let the oil drain into a catch pan. I then looked at the magnetic drain plug for unwanted items. There’s always going to be some stuff attached to the magnet but sludge is ok, chunks are not. I had no chunks so I cleaned the drain plug and set it aside.
While the oil is draining, you can pull the next one which is what I’ll call Screen #1. It’s the one next to the drain plug. Pull the plug and then you might have to pull the screen if it didn’t come out with the plug.
Check the O Rings on the plug and the ones on each end of the screens. I then looked for small bits and pieces that the screens are designed to catch. There’s almost always some stuff, both bright and dark. As long as you see nothing concerning, clean the screen with compressed air and brake cleaner.
Staying on the left side you’ll see the cover for filter #1. Kind of hard to miss and easy to get to, right? Remove the 2 bolts with either an 8mm or the 30 torx.
Next, you’ll need to remove the cover and I know what you might want to do – grab a screwdriver and give it a little pry, right?
NOPE! Don’t be a hack and don’t take a chance of fucking up your surfaces. Instead just give the cover a twist. Then you can pull on an ear or two and the cover will pop right off!
Once the cover is off, pull out the filter. This is held in by a bit of rubber on the backside of the filter over a nipple inside. Just pull straight out. If you can’t get a good hold on the filter, they make a special tool that screws into the old filter and allows you to pull. I use either a dental pic or in the field a short piece of safety wire bento to a hook. It’s easy to slip in the edge and grab the edge of the filter.
NOTE: Since I just saved you a buttload of problems and cash – here’s my current amazon gift list. ?
Moving over to the other side of the bike you’ll see a screen bolt at the bottom. Following the same as you did earlier, remove the bolt, remove the screen, clean and set aside.
Staying on the right side of the bike pull off the cover for Filter #2. This one is a little different in that it has a hose going to the cover but it’s still the same, remove to the 2 bolts, twist a bit and then pull. Leave the hose attached and just let it dangle out of the way.
This filter has a hole on either end. Stick a finger in the hole and pull the filter.
Next I wiped clean the covers, the filter holes and everything else I could get to. The screens are identical to each other and can go in either way with o rings at each end. The filters are different. I matched up each new one to the old one to make sure I had the correct part numbers.
If all is good, starting at the top and working our way down replace Filter #2, then Filter #1. Be careful not to over tighten the bolts. These little M5 bolts can strip the case so easily. Proper torque is only 4.4 ft pounds!
All the while I’m still allowing the oil to drain but there should be nothing but a drip by now.
Next I do both the screens and then finally the drain plug. If you are into torque settings the screen plugs are 11.1 foot pounds, the drain plug is supposed to be torqued at 14.8 foot pounds. Once everything is in and tight I go around with a rag with a little cleaner and make sure all the bolts and areas are clean and dry.
FILL IT UP!
I’m not going to get into a debate on oil. I use Motorex Powersynt 4T 10W-50, you can use whatever oil you want. The manual calls for 1.7 liters.
I love this KTM 2 stroke funnel for measuring oil and getting it all into the hole. It holds a full liter but you can’t fill it there and hope to hit the hole so I marked it at 500ml and that interval makes it nice and easy to pour.
While the manual says 1.7 I put it 1.6 and then closed the cap and warmed the motor for a few minutes. While it’s doing that I checked for any leaks around my plugs.
Then I let the motor sit for a few minutes and check the oil level. Correct is anywhere between the lines. Sorry for the potato quality picture.
While that level is good and fine I want it at a higher (proper) level without being over filled. So I measured out the remaining 10 ml and poured that in, warmed the motor for a few and then let it set for a few and was much happier with the new level.
I then took it for a ride down the street. No weird sounds or smells. Back in the driveway I then put the skid plate back on.
Next up I’ll be looking at the brake fluid(s), clutch fluid, and coolant.