The first thing people think when you say you installed a Rekluse is their Automatic version. It converts any bike with one into a semi automatic. You still need to shift but you don’t need to pull in the clutch to do so. To engage the clutch from a stop all you have to do is give it gas. It’s kind of funky, kind of cool.
Unless of course you are Dave and waiting for us to catch up.
The Rekluse Manual Clutch is not at all like that. It works and operates just like the stock clutch does – it just does everything better.
With my stock clutch getting a little soft it was time to replace it. The Rekluse is a bit more expensive but I chose to go with it because there’s nothing better out there. Everything is improved, yet the entire package still fits in the same place as the stock did.
While the stock has 7 friction discs, the Rekluse has 11. It does this by making everything just a little thinner.

It’s not just that alone. The plates usually ride in the clutch basket and we expect to have a little wear and tear there naturally. The Rekluse kit comes with these little inserts of that make the inside groves of your basket smooth and scratch resistant.

It’s a pretty easy job to replace the clutch. I first drained the oil, then removed the side cover.

Not all the bolts on the side cover are the same in length. To make sure you get them all correct, you need a system. Here’s mine. I start at 12 o’clock and go clockwise. Each bolt is put in it’s hole and replaced the same way.

Follow all the directions, watch a few YouTube tutorials and you won’t be intimidated by the internal clockworkings of a modern KTM

Clutch replacements are easy – until they aren’t…
I was following the Rekluse directions and installing this aluminum hub and barley tightening this thing as directed when I heard a “TINK”. It was the tab that simply cracked.

With just a few weeks to go before the big ride I immediately got online and found a replacement part. It took a little more than a week to arrive but I couldn’t have put the unit back together with out it.

With the new unit in hand, Tomm and I carefully put it all back together. Those two black allen head socket screws are only temporary here. They hold the unit together while you install the pressure plate and springs.

Phew! I finished changing the oil, started it up, looked for leaks (there were none) and rode up and down the street. The master cylinder could use a good bleeding but I didn’t have mineral oil on hand.
UPDATE: I can recommend the Rekluse as a stock replacement. I’ve now run LAB2V and the CABDR and not a single fade or issue.
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